Well I was about done with the finish on Topsy I had the base coat on and the ivy painted on it and working on the top coat.
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I am SOOOOO Happy I went to the EXPERTS....................NOT
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ok first thing jay you should have asked dave hawksford on this,, i know hindsight is always better than fore sight ,,, but now were threw the storm ,, what are tryun to do have ared paint color and then clear caot over that? if so you could have used dye jay.. and might be able to to still but looks like from your pics that paint is in order now..so what are you headed for for final finish?
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Sorry about your mess Jay. Anytime you want to use a lacquer over a Latex you need to apply a sealer coat or 2 in piss coat applications then apply lacquer coat in the same way , 2 coats then one good coat.

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Your right Larry but I have done this type of finish in production back when I had my shop and never had a problem. So far 2 thing have come in to play and one of them is OLD stock finish (it was on sale so what do ya think)The other company I talked to ( just got off the phone with them) said I should have stuck with my old ways as the water base stuff has not made that many advances in 30 years. They are recommending a ZAR product that is a Acrylic urethane. Will look into it more.
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In the mean time it is back to painting the base coat on and repainting the Ivy on. I want total wood grain coverage and that is why I didn"t go with stain. To many patches in the Baltic Birch to stain.How ever after saying that I am open to options.
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Jay CaughronMember
Messages4,835LocationBillings Missouri near Springfield Mo
Dave Hawksford said:
Sorry about your mess Jay. Anytime you want to use a lacquer over a Latex you need to apply a sealer coat or 2 in piss coat applications then apply lacquer coat in the same way , 2 coats then one good coat.
What I was worried about with Lacquer Dave was yellowing.Would you use shellac for the sealer piss coat???
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With what you were spraying over you would not get any noticeable yellowing. The yellowing is very slight over white colors, white whites are the problem. Or it would be just as good to use the water born lacquers. But I would still use a good lacquer sanding sealer no matter what I was topping it with.
M
Mario MarcheseMember
Messages36Locationoutside of NYC
What a war of confusion!! sorry to hear about all that Jay. I put a polyurethane clear coat on the inside of my white painted pressure box and it dried with a yellow tint! the can says clear! I learned my lesson the hard way. "The test is always before the lesson".
That"s a real bummer... Nothing worse than having a finish go bad mid stream.....Funny you mention ML Campbells telling you that SW was wrong ML Campbells IS Sherwin Williams now... SW bought them a few years ago. But SW knows paint ML knows the clears and such.
Jay CaughronMember
Messages4,835LocationBillings Missouri near Springfield Mo
Rich Soby said:
Funny you mention ML Campbells telling you that SW was wrong ML Campbells IS Sherwin Williams now... SW bought them a few years ago. But SW knows paint ML knows the clears and such.
Yeah I had that conversation with the dealer also. What they claim is that under contract S.W. Can not change the formula of the M.L.Campbell product which as I understand they did on others they bought out and they turned to crap just like S.W. water base products. (Im talking lacquers and polys here) I still feel that S.W. paints are top notch and hard to beat.They are saying to use ZAR and I"m not sure who owns it.

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Jay CaughronMember
Messages4,835LocationBillings Missouri near Springfield Mo
Dave Hawksford said:
With what you were spraying over you would not get any noticeable yellowing. The yellowing is very slight over white colors, white whites are the problem. Or it would be just as good to use the water born lacquers. But I would still use a good lacquer sanding sealer no matter what I was topping it with.
Would you use a solvent base sealer??Do you think Magnlac would be OK to spray over the latex paint after using a sealer??