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A Spark Ignition is akin come an digital gas oven top. As soon as your revolve on a gas burner ~ above a stove, girlfriend don’t have a pilot burning, you have a sparker (tick-tick-tick) that lights one next of the burner, and also then the burner orifices easily ignites, all around the burner. Gas warm water heaters work-related the exact same way.
This brand-new generation of gas swimming pool heaters is a whole brand-new ball game. Gone is the pilot generator and also mechanical thermostat. Electronic heaters space wired up with 110V or 220V power directly into a transformer, which steps down the strength to 24V. From the transformer, 24 volts powers the entire ignition and safety circuitry, and everything is controlled electronically with the Ignition manage (PCB, published circuit board), the brain of the operation.
But, aside from the IID controller, transformer, a redesigned digital thermostat, gas valve and pilot, digital heaters still duty in the same means as millivolt heaters. When the security circuitry check out, the gas valve opens and also releases gas come the burners. The pilot irradiate ignites the an initial burner (on the far right), and also the others follow – whoosh!
After a heater ignites, it proceeds to fire or burn till the collection thermostat temperature is reached, or one more switch breaks the circuit (pressure switch, high border switch, on/off switch).
You’ll require a multi-meter, one that can inspect low voltage 24 Volts. Girlfriend can discover these almost everywhere – Walmart, residence Depot, Radio Shack, and also it should price under $20. You don’t require a fancy test meter come troubleshoot a swimming pool heater.
ELECTRONIC swimming pool HEATER TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDES
For our instance heater, we will be using the Old Teledyne Laars collection I & Series II Spark Ignition heaters, do from 1986-1997; but the concepts use to digital heaters make by Raypak, Hayward or Purex – RP2100, H-Series or Minimax to add heaters.
The diagram below is native the Teledyne Laars collection One heater, Model EPS/EPC, and also Laars collection 2 ESC. The double thermostats (shown above) is something of a gimmick, that just permits you to store two preset temperatures, and use the 3-position Spa-Off-Pool switch to pick Spa or Pool, it’s nothing more than that. If fact, if your pool Thermostat (potentiometer) attract out, you deserve to use the Spa thermostat to heat the pool.
What we have here is a schematic diagram of the safety and security circuit in an electronic gas pool heater. The Transformer (1) measures down the incoming strength to 24 volts, and the strength does a circuit, or a loop, native one side of the gas valve come the other.
When the power efficiently passes through every one of the contents (fuse, fusible link, high limits, pressure switch, thermistor) and again returns to the Ignition Controller (6), the gas valve (8) must open and allow gas to circulation into the pilot, which is lit by a little spark (7A), created by the spark ignition wire. The pilot (7B) is lit temporarily, which lamp up the burners. Whooosh!
Let’s take it action by step…
STEP 1: TRANSFORMER CHECK
If her heater has actually no strength at all, check the circuit breaker or look because that a popped GFCI outlet. Next, verify that you have 24 volts comes in and out that the transformer. Location your test meter on VAC (AC Volts), on a low range 100 or 200 volts. Then location each probe onto the metal spade connectors of the transformer to verify 22-26 volts, no more – no less.
Inspect the wires too, feather for any kind of obvious indications of damage from warm or rodents. If you don’t gain 24 volts on the transformer, replace the transformer (pn R0061100), they go negative every once in a while.
STEP 2 & 3: FUSIBLE attach CHECKS
With the Black, or common lead from your multimeter remaining on the Yellow cable side the the Transformer, girlfriend will move the various other Red lead about to various heater components, starting with the Fusible link, a little white part that sit down near the burners, to sense flame rollout. Move your Red meter result in both political parties of the Fusible Link. If you uncover power coming in (2), but not coming the end (3), friend either have a poor In-line Fuse (pn 10480000) or a bad Fusible attach (pn R0012200).
The reason of a fail Fusible connect should be investigated. It can be material laying ~ above the burners, or leaves or swarms on top of the warm exchanger, or high winds downdrafting, or soot or lime deposits between the copper warm exchanger fins.
STEP 4 & 5: press SWITCH / HIGH limit CHECKS
Keeping the black wire top top the transformer (an alligator clip adapter for a check probe is useful), move to the probe to the push switch (R0011300) and check for 24 volts on each push switch spade terminal. Be sure you room contacting the brass metal of the terminal. If no strength is uncovered coming into the pressure switch, back-up and test each Hi-Limit (4B 4C) and the Fireman’s move terminal (which turn off the heater off 15 minutes prior to the pump timer is going to shut off, because that a cool under period). Remember – the problem lies where the strength dies!
If the Hi-Limits (R0023200 and R0022700) room tripping, or the cause of the problem, examine the interior Bypass assembly (pn R0054900), in the prior header, for broken, missing or misaligned parts. A temperature rise deserve to be done with a one-of-a-kind thermometer placed into the drainpipe plug hole (pn R0336000), to see how high the temperature is climbing inside of the header.
If you uncover no voltage or less than 24 volts ~ above the black wire (outgoing) the the press switch, examine for a dirty filter, dirty pump or skimmer baskets or closed or partially closed valves or damaged check valves. Also check because that an exterior bypass, a valve outside of the heater, which can enable too lot water come bypass the heater.
STEP 6: THERMOSTAT CHECKS
On this step just move your Red lead over to the black/yellow striped cable on the Ignition manage box, come the terminal labeling 24V. Again be certain to call the metal spade connector ~ above the Controller, there is no removing the wire, return you deserve to loosen the cable if needed. Rotate the thermostat up, and also the On/Off switch towards the exactly dial.
If there is not 24V at this terminal, change the Temperature plank (pn R0011700) and also if there is 24V however no heat, it’s most likely the Thermistor (pn R0011800).
STEP 7: SPARK CHECK
For Step 7A, check if over there is a Spark in ~ the Gap, by removing the Spark Ignition Wire, pulling back the rubber boot and also holding it close to the connector. With thermostat rotate up, the call for heat should be sending a small, visible electrical spark, jumping the gap from the finish of the rubber coated wire, come the connector. If no spark, inspect the stainless steel wire the runs from the Ceramic Insulator to the Pilot (R0099000), come be sure the power is not grounding out to the burner tray, or part other steel piece. Also check and clean where the SS cable connects at the bottom that the pilot. Make a Visual inspect of the place of the pilot and also sparker, come be sure there aren’t nests or insects or debris, and also it all appears intact. If girlfriend have adhered to the actions to this point and have 24V approximately the Spark Ignition Wire, however no spark jumping the gap, the difficulty may it is in the Ignition control Box or IID (Intermittent Ignition Device) (R0011900).
Step 7B, the pilot (7B) lights, but you have actually no ignition or shooting of the heater burners; use your multi-meter in the very same settings and also position as supplied above, examine for 24V in ~ the Orange cable on the Gas Valve. If Yes, check for clogs in the pilot or burner orifices, or in the gas supply. Girlfriend may also suspect the volume and also pressure of gas supply at this point, Propane tanks can be low, or various other high demand natural gas appliances might be in use. First consider and check the wires, in search of sharp bends or nicks in the wire casing, and also making certain wire nuts, screw or connectors room clean (not rusted) and also tight. If damages is found, replace Wire Harness (pn R0058100), and also possibly the Ignition Controller still can be the problem. Circuit plank in the great old outdoors have tendency to fail in 8-10 yrs.
STEP 8: GAS VALVE CHECK
If you have come this far, v a pilot burning and also 24V in ~ the Orange cable on the Gas Valve, now inspect for 24V top top the Brown cable on the gas valve. If no, your brown cable is highly suspect, or the circuit plank (Ignition Control) is shot. If girlfriend do have power, in ~ 24V (or at the very least 22V) in ~ the Brown wire and the heater won’t fire – offer the gas valve a tiny tap with a hammer (really!). If it still won’t fire off, the electronic devices inside the valve have actually failed, replace the gas valve, (R0095900 and Nat pn R0099400). Check for a clogged intake display screen as you eliminate it.
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Before friend go and throw down numerous hundred dollars top top a brand-new Gas Valve or Ignition manage – go through the steps an additional time to be certain – I’d dislike to waste her time and also money, buying pool heater parts that don’t solve the problem!
And…These component numbers I’m throwing around Fit only Jandy (Laars) collection 2 ESC heaters, be sure to inspect your model size, some don’t fit various other models!
After running through every one of the steps at least twice – if you desire some confirmation of her Laars heater troubleshooting, girlfriend can contact us at 877-766-5287 (1-877-POOLCTR), come speak v a pool tech, who can answer any kind of questions top top the process. Jandy Laars (Owned by Zodiac) additionally has homeowner technical support, and also heater manuals online, or call them at 800-227-1442.
Oh, I almost forgot – here’s the connect for over 150 gas swimming pool heater components schematics! Support your local swimming swimming pool centregalilee.com!